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Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Food of the Gods: Annamaria Alfieri

My chocolate and mystery worlds collide again! Today I welcome international mystery author Annamaria Alfieri. She is a big fan of chocolate. No surprise! This post originally appeared on the blog Murder in Everywhere, one of my favorite crime fiction sites! Reprinted with permission.

Annamaria Alfieri's latest novel is Blood Tango; set against the most dramatic period of Argentine history, it imagines the murder of an Evita Perón lookalike. It was chosen as one of ten must-read thrillers by The Christian Science Monitor. She has has also written Invisible Country and City of Silver. Writing as Patricia King, she is the author of the short story “Baggage Claim,” in the anthology Queens Noir. Her five books on business subjects include Never Work for a Jerk, which was featured on the Oprah Winfrey show. She blogs at Murder in Everywhere. A world traveler, Annamaria takes a keen interest in the history of the places she visits. She lives in New York City and is President of the New York Chapter of Mystery Writers of America.

ANNAMARIA ALFIERI:
FOOD OF THE GODS

My subject today is inspired by a comment on last Monday’s post by our reader—Kathy D. She and I share a love for “the sacred food.” For many years now, I have called chocolate my drug of choice. When asked to take sides in discussions of religion, I claim to worship IxCacao, the Mayan goddess of chocolate. With the holidays coming and the opportunities for chocolate consumption—not to say worship—increasing, it seems the right time to take up this subject. The beginnings of the human race’s relationship with chocolate are shrouded in prerecorded history. There is evidence that our love affair with it began in Mesoamerica as early as 1900 B.C. Mayan legend offers a prayer to the goddess: “O IxCacao, see my tears and come to my aid.” Now that I know it, I am going to repeat it in times of need. And then eat some of her favorite food as part of my rite. Why not? As we say in New York, it couldn’t hurt.
The beginnings of the human race’s relationship with chocolate are shrouded in prerecorded history. There is evidence that our love affair with it began in Mesoamerica as early as 1900 B.C. Mayan legend offers a prayer to the goddess: “O IxCacao, see my tears and come to my aid.” Now that I know it, I am going to repeat it in times of need. And then eat some of her favorite food as part of my rite. Why not? As we say in New York, it couldn’t hurt.

The ancients in Central America believed that chocolate has mystical and healing powers. They drank it. An Aztec myth says Questzalcoatl, their god of agriculture, brought them the cocoa tree from Paradise to give them wisdom and power. They called it “bitter water” and evidently were also the first to combine it with honey and vanilla. Both the Maya and the Aztecs used the drink as part of religious ceremonies. The Maya prescribed chocolate for fevers, coughs, and discomfort during pregnancy.

The cacao bean grows on a tree that started out, in prehistoric times, growing wild in the forests, not only of Central America but also in South America, Africa, and parts of Asia. Its botanical name, Theobroma cacao means “food of the gods.”


Chocolate is big business now, but so it also was in Mayan times. Their cosmology included a god—Ychaua—who was the patron of the cocoa merchants. The Aztecs used two precious forms of currency: gold and cocoa beans. Columbus brought the first beans to Europe, but he experienced them only as a medium of exchange. Funny money! No Europeans knew what to do with them until Moctezuma gave the sacred drink to Cortes. The explorer brought back to Spain everything needed to prepare the drink, but the monks there thought the substance too powerful for the common person. They kept it a secret in their monasteries and served it only to the nobility.


It took an Italian, Antonio Carletti, in the early 1600’s, to bring the drink to the common folk. A century later, chocolate houses were the rage all over Europe, but then in 17th century England and 18th Century France, the places were condemned as hotbeds of sedition and the drink called a dangerous drug.

We owe its ubiquitous availability today to a Dutch chemist named Johannes Van Houten, who figured out how to use a hydraulic press to make cocoa powder, and to a Brit named John Cadbury who emulsified the powder into the first chocolate bars. I love those guys! Chocolate is now world wide. These days, it is also grown outside Central America. In fact, almost half of the current supply comes from Africa, from the Cote D’Ivoire.

I commune with the goddess by taking my chocolate in almost any form available, but I prefer creamy bittersweet bars.  I try to never run out, because I never know when the need for a “fix” might hit me.  Chocolate satisfaction can come in many forms.  For a short time, I found on sale a Haagen Dazs flavor called Mayan Chocolate, bitter-sweet with cinnamon.  I loved it.  But I never find it anymore.  I guess there were not enough of my coreligionists in the neighborhood to make it worth the while of nearby stores to stock it.  The chocolate truffles from our local Li-Lac Chocolates are a huge favorite.  On a recent trip to Philadelphia, my daughter and her husband brought me a box of chocolate figs—sweet dried figs stuffed with truffle cream and coated with dark, dark chocolate.  Taken in very small doses, they lifted my spirits for weeks!  I wonder if they are sold by mail order.  Having described them, I want some NOW!

Monday, December 9, 2013

National Pastry Day: Pâtisserie & Chocolate Eclairs

December 9 is National Pastry Day. I know that pastries covers a huge range of baked cooks that include flour, butter, sugar, eggs and milk, but I thought today I'd mention the pâtisserie.  I can rarely pass a pâtisserie here and in France without going in and sampling the pastries. But the term pâtisserie has a very specific meaning in France and Belgium. It refers to a French or Belgian bakery that specializes in pastries and sweets. In those countries it is a legally controlled titles that can only be used by bakeries that employ a licensed master pastry chef.

I am not a maître pâtissier, and I imagine you're not either, but for National Pastry Day, I thought I'd post my go-to pastry recipe for Mini-Chocolate Eclairs.

My favorite eclairs are not the long thin "traditional" hotdog shaped eclairs (although I like those, too), but rather, the mini-eclairs. Pâte à choux.. little puff pastry.. that I've been making for years are simple to make and easy to fill. Well, I checked my blog, and I've already posted about these eclairs, but they're worthy of a repost. They're soooo easy and yet look so beautiful and taste fabulous! Hope you enjoy making these as much as I do!

I've adapted this recipe for Mini Chocolate Eclairs from Paula Deen. It is one of my favorites because it's easy and fabulous! I never use margarine, so I've dropped that alternative from the recipe. Real butter is always best. As always, I use the very best dark chocolate for the topping. I've changed a few measurements and directions in the recipe for the novice Eclair Chef. If you're a purist, just click on Paula Deen's recipe above.

Because these eclairs are so small, feel free to have 3 or 4. :-) Yield depends on how small you make them, but I can get about 40 small eclairs from this recipe. They're great for a crowd!

Want to make these even more chocolate? Add a handful of chocolate chips or chocolate chunks to the egg cream filling or fill with chocolate cream instead: just add 1/4 dark cocoa to the dry ingredients. To fill the eclairs, I use a pastry bag, but if you don't have one, you can always fill a Ziploc bag and cut the tip off to pipe the filling into the eclair.

You will probably have some extra icing. Half the recipe if you ice sparingly. I'm all about chocolate, so there's never much left.

MINI CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS

Pastry:
1 cup water
8 tbsp butter
1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
3 eggs

Filling:
3 cups whole milk
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 eggs, beaten
2 teaspoons vanilla

Icing:
3 ounces unsweetened dark chocolate
2 cups sugar
1 cup heavy whipping cream

Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 400F.
2. Heat water and butter to boiling point. Add flour and stir constantly until mixture is smooth and forms a ball when tested in cold water. Remove from heat and let cool. Beat in 3 eggs, one at a time. Drop dough from teaspoon, elongate slightly to form small eclairs (or drop in 'puffs'), onto greased cookie sheet. Bake for approximately 30-35 minutes or until light brown. Set aside to cool.
3. Prepare filling by mixing all dry ingredients. Very slowly add milk over low heat and cook until mixture thickens (don't let heat get too high), so you don't have any lumps. Then pour this custard  into the beaten eggs, stirring quickly (so eggs don't cook). Cool and add vanilla.
4. With a serrated knife, slice pastry puffs lengthwise (or if you have puffs make a hole), but not all the way through. Pipe custard mixture into the center.
5. Melt chocolate for icing, add sugar and cream. Cook over medium heat until soft ball stage. Let cool and beat until smooth. Ice tops of eclairs.


Sunday, December 8, 2013

Brownie Recipe Round-Up: 60+ Recipes for National Brownie Day

Photo: Ghiradelli Gluten-Free Brownies
Today is National Brownie Day. I've posted so many Brownie recipes over the years, including my favorite, Aunt Sylvia's Brownies. Here's a Round-up of 60+ Brownie Recipes I've posted. I'm sure I didn't catch them all, but it's an updated list. Feel free to add links to your own favorites in the comments. Be sure to scroll down for more 'vintage' brownie recipes and variations circa 1958.

2013 Brownie Recipe Round-Up: Links to 60+ Recipes

Aunt Sylvia's Brownies

Peppermint Bark Brownies

Extra Nutty Peanut Butter Fudge Brownies

Guy Fawkes Night: Bonfire Brownies

Peanut Butter Toffee Cheesecake Brownies

Chocolate Peanut Butter Brownies

Peanut Butter & Jelly Brownies

Peanut Butter Marbled Brownies

White Chocolate Brownies with Macadamia Nuts 

Full Moon Brownies

Fudgy Mocha Brownies

Cream Cheese Brownies

Chocolate Cream Cheese Brownies

Guinness Stout Brownies

Kahlua Brownies

Pumpkin Chocolate Brownies

Strawberry Extra-Chocolately Brownies

Ghirardelli Gluten-Free Brownies

S'mores Brownies from a Mix

S'mores Brownies from Scratch

Gravenstein Apple Chocolate Brownies

Cocoanut Golden-Brownies

Chocolate Walnut Brownies

Gold Rush Brownies  

Nutella Brownie Muffins 

Cherry Cheesecake Brownies

Honey Chocolate Brownies

Chocolate Raspberry Beer Brownies

Bacon Brownies

Eggnog Brownies

Brandy Alexander Brownies

Double Chocolate Fresh Cherry Brownies

Cocoanut Golden-Brownies

Red Wine Brownies 

Glad's Brownies

Chocolate Merlot Mustard Brownies 

Mounds of Brownies: Chocolate Revelations

Candy Corn Brownies

Halloween Oreo Brownies

Harvest Moon Pumpkin Brownies

Peanut Butter Brownie Cupcakes 

Pumpkin Chocolate Brownies

Passover Flourless Brownies (4 recipes) #Gluten-free

Dutch Process Cocoa Brownies

Judy Hogan's Healthy Brownies

Brownie Mini Ice Cream Sandwiches

Miss Piggy's Ben & Jerry's Chocolate Brownies 

"Mounds" of Brownies

Mexican Spicy Brownies

Brownie Bites with Cherry Jubilee Sauce 

Pudding Brownies

Brownies in a Jar

Decadent Quadruple Chocolate Brownie Pie

Retro Chocolate Brownie Pie

Chocolate Pecan Brownie Fudge Cake

And even more variations on this page from Good Housekeeping's Book of Cookies (1958). Brownies, after all, are a type of Bar Cookie!

Saturday, December 7, 2013

GLUTEN-FREE TIPS FOR HOLIDAY BAKING & CREAM PUFF RECIPE: Kyra Bussanich

Have Your Cake and Feel Good, Too!

Kyra Bussanich is a two-time winner of The Food Network’s hit show, “Cupcake Wars.” She graduated with honors from Le Cordon Bleu and opened her award-winning bakery, Kyra's Bake Shop, which features gourmet, gluten-free sweets. She has branched beyond desserts to other gluten-free goods in order to help those with celiac and other autoimmune diseases enjoy quality treats.

“We assume it’s because we overate, but for a lot of people, that pain and sick feeling may not be about how much you ate but what you ate,” says Kyra Bussanich, (www.kyrasbakeshop.com), two-time winner of The Food Network’s “Cupcake Wars” and author of a just-released recipe book, “Sweet Cravings: 50 Seductive Desserts for a Gluten-Free Lifestyle” (Ten Speed Press; Random House, Inc.)

“About 2 million Americans have celiac disease – an auto-immune reaction to gluten, the protein in wheat,” says Bussanich, whose painful symptoms became life-threatening before she was finally diagnosed with the illness. “Most of those people aren’t diagnosed though, because the symptoms look like so many other intestinal ailments.”

People with celiac disease must completely avoid gluten, which is also in rye, and barley, to avoid a case of painful and gut-damaging indigestion. But, as Harvard Medical School reported earlier this year, avoiding gluten also appears to help people with less serious digestive issues.

“It really does seem to provide some improvement in gastrointestinal problems for a segment of the population," says Harvard assistant professor Dr. Daniel Leffler.

For Bussanich, a chef, there was no choice: One speck of gluten would make her ill. But she refused to give up pastries, cakes and other treats, so she perfected gluten-free varieties. Her award-winning desserts left their flour-based competition in crumbs on “Cupcakes Wars” in 2011 and 2012, and she was a runner-up on the show’s “Cupcake Champion.”

Kyra Bussanich offers these tips for making gluten-free baked goods this holiday season:

If you’re following a recipe, don’t substitute the listed flour or starch with another type unless you’re familiar with its properties. There are many different types of gluten-free flours and starches, including millet, sorghum and sweet white rice flour, and potato and tapioca starches. Each has its own idiosyncrasies. For example, millet flour has a slightly nutty flavor and is well-suited for goods with a hearty texture. Sweet white rice flour holds moisture well and is good for recipes that have a slight gumminess to them. Potato starch is light and good for fluffy cakes.

Use eggs and butter at room temperature. Eggs are often used as a binder, the protein that substitutes for the missing gluten. Eggs and butter are both easier to work with when used at room temperature, and room-temperature egg whites whip up fluffier. If you forget to pull the butter out of the refrigerator beforehand, heat it for 7 to 12 seconds in the microwave. Put cold eggs in warm (not hot) water for 30 to 60 seconds.

Don’t overwork batter and dough with xanthan gum in it. Corn-based xanthan gum is often used as a stabilizer and thickener in gluten-free baked goods, sauces, dressings and soups. Once this ingredient is added, overworking the dough can give it a slimy, gummy texture, and cause it to lose flavor. (A good substitute for xanthan gum is ground psyllium seed husk.)

Heat higher, cream longer for lighter cakes. One complaint people sometimes have about gluten-free baked goods is that they’re too dense. To prevent this, try setting the oven temperature 25 degrees warmer than you would for flour. This will cause the butter in the recipe to release its water as steam, which helps the cake rise quickly. Also, cream eggs and butter together longer – about 10 minutes – than you would for flour cakes.

“If your recipe doesn’t turn out wonderfully the first time, don’t give up,” she says. “I promise you, anyone can make delicious gluten-free desserts. It just may take a little practice.”

GLUTEN-FREE CREAM PUFFS

Ingredients

Pastry Cream:
2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup sugar
4 egg yolks
1/3 cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste or extract

Puff Dough:
2 cups whole milk
2/3 cup canola oil
4 cups tapioca starch
6 eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla
 Pinch salt

Chocolate Glaze:
1-1/2 cups best-quality dark chocolate
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup heavy cream

Directions

Pastry Cream:
To make the pastry cream, line baking pan with heatproof plastic wrap and set aside. Place milk and 1/4 cup sugar in saucepan and scald milk (heat to point where it is steaming and edges look like it's about to boil but not yet bubbling). Meanwhile, in large bowl, whisk together egg yolks, cornstarch, and remaining 1/4 cup of sugar until smooth. Once milk is scalded, whisk egg mixture vigorously while very slowly pouring in milk in steady stream. Then pour mixture back into saucepan and return to medium-high heat. Whisk constantly while heating to ensure that no lumps form. Bring to a boil and, whisking constantly, continue to let boil for 90 seconds. Remove from heat and stir in butter and vanilla bean paste until well blended.

Pour pastry cream into plastic wrap–lined pan and cover entire surface of cream with additional plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming. Chill 30 to 60 minutes.

Puff Dough: 
To make puff dough, preheat oven to 350°F. Set aside two mini muffin pans and leave ungreased.

Pour milk and oil into small saucepan and bring to boil. Meanwhile, put tapioca starch in mixing bowl of stand mixer with paddle attachment. When milk mixture comes to boil, turn mixer on medium speed and slowly pour milk into tapioca. Turn to high and add eggs, one at a time, and blend thoroughly, stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of the bowl. Mix in vanilla and salt.

Evenly fill 36 muffin cups two-thirds full. Bake until puffed and golden brown and hard to the touch, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, remove plastic wrap from pastry cream and place cream in bowl. Whisk to soften and smooth texture. Spoon cream into pastry bag fitted with #802 round piping tip. (Normally I advocate using a ziplock bag if you don’t have a pastry bag, but in this instance, the ziplock is likely to split along the seam.) Then refrigerate.

Once cool to touch, pop puffs out of pan. (If you can’t get  puffs to easily pop out, or if they begin deflating as they cool, put them back in oven for 5 to 10 minutes so they finish baking and crisp up.) Take pointed paring knife and carefully cut small round hole in bottom of each puff. To fill cream puffs, insert piping tip of bag of pastry cream partway into bottom of each puff and gently squeeze.

Chocolate Glaze: 
To make chocolate glaze, melt chocolate over a double boiler or in microwave-safe bowl. If using microwave, heat in 30-second intervals, stirring between each. Stir butter and cream into melted chocolate until well blended.

Dip top of each cream puff in chocolate glaze, turn right side up, and place directly on serving platter.